Rosarito to San Borja
The restaurant next to my hotel opened at 6am and I was there for some fine coffee. Then I had a quick love affair with a darling little cat. She helped me clean my bike and pack up.
I took off towards the hills. The dirt road was well marked and level. Kind of easy. I kept waiting for it to get harder. It was a stunning day. I changed into my shorts. Took a break for snacks. Stopped for photos next to bike graffiti.
It was barely 2pm when I got to the mission.
Behind the mission, there was a notch in the mesa overhead where the Cochimi laborers chipped out the stones block by block.
There was plenty of room for camping. A row of empty palapas and cabanas stood ready for crowds of visitors. I met three Bio students who were exploring Baja by car. They had good books and knew all the plants.
The caretaker at the mission was named Jose Angel. His family has cared for the grounds for generations. He offered to show me how to get to the hot springs. Along the path, he told me how he’d had four wives, the last one had left 20 years ago, and he was ready for a new one. When we got to the hot springs, he wouldn’t leave. I thought about throwing a rock at him, but I didn’t. I just raised my voice a little.
After that, he left me alone. But I did have some company that night.